It's pretty good with one extension tube. Another benefit is that some vcan do multiple slides at a time - handy if you've lot to do.īTW, the Fuji 60mm is very sharp at it's native 1:2.
There are more recent models - they may do as well or better. They are set up for good color and contrast rendition and they have automated digital dust scanning and removal that your camera-based process doesn't offer. I tried all that, and would suggest a dedicated scanner or if that's too pricey, then a flat bed scanner. So the dust healing / cloning out process becomes important - sometimes it works OK, and at other times it's difficult depending on where a speck of dust might be in the mage. They also attract dust and it seems very difficult to remove it all. These need to be adjusted from the camera output to get the rendering you want. Negative and slides have their own color balance and contrast levels. Macro lenses can give very good results, but the question of optics and suitability is only one factor out of many. You've got a lot of useful - and different - advice already, but here's my 0.02c worth. V600 scanned 6圆 negative on Ilford FP4 (Kowa 66) It took years - but now I have a digital collection which I have been able to distribute on disk to numerous family members around the world.Įxample: My sister and I, Amsterdam, 1977 Very many of these were family history stretching back to a time before I was born. Whatever the kit, this is a project which demands a lot of time and energy - I have scanned several thousand frames.
Enlarging lenses are usually flat field and I have used Meopta, Nikon and Rodenstock Ysaron of various focal lengths. Very good results but extremely time-consuming especially once colour correction, dust removal and image repair (emulsion damage/ageing?) is factored in. I have rephotographed slides and negatives and used a Rodagon flat field enlarging lens mounted on Novoflex bellows with a flashgun providing consistent and repeatable lighting. I have had several scanners dedicated to film and general purpose. Thank you for any other piece of advice you might offer.īuy a dedicated film scanner or if not that then a general purpose flat bed scanner which can accept transparent material. Please share what you learn as I'd love to use the camera method of scanning. This link provides processing suggestions and as you will see there is work to be done: I don't recall why I did not wind up using VueScan when I tried this with a Nikon Body. It supports RAW flles from many Cameras or you can use TIFF or JPEG.
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The software VueScan works well with many scanners including flatbed scanners. Using auto color in your processing software may work, it has not for me.
In theory after inverting the colors, subtracting this color should from your image should produce pure white on the sprocket area.
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